Monday, December 8, 2008

Almost in Cambodia via Hong Kong

December 7th:

We all arrived in Hong Kong a little tired from the flight but excited to explore this new world. With the exception of my sister Bobbi, none of us had ever been to Hong Kong before. As such, for this trip, we have arranged a two night layover here. My sister used to be a flight attendant and knows the city quite well and she has been very helpful.

When we arrived we went straight to the hotel. Ahhh, there is nothing like a hot shower, a decent meal and a vertical nap after a 14 hour flight to refresh the spirit. We will all arrive in Cambodia refreshed and ready to go. Yesterday we took a half day tour of the city. We went to the 'peak' on Hong Kong Island for an impressive view of this incredibly vertical and dense city. Imagine the west end of Vancouver on steroids. As I understand, there are 7 million plus people who live in Hong Kong. It's incredible to think that this many people live in area that is likely no bigger (perhaps smaller) than my city of Kamloops. Kamloops only has 85,000 people! Indeed, land and space are at a premium here and can't be taken for granted. Our tour guide was explaining how the average family lives in 800 square foot apartments in sky scrapper buildings. When he was a child, his family had nine people - do the math.

But despite the lack of space, Hong Kong is most definitely not what I would call “developing” - far from it. Indeed, one would be hard pressed to find many other places on earth with such opulence. Hong Kong is definitely a paradox. It is incredibly clean and organized here on the surface, but we know the water isn't clean. The vendors are assertive but not aggressive. People wait at the cross walk even if there are no cars coming and I don't think it is because of fear of getting a fine, although I could be wrong. There isn't much space but people are very respectful of it. There is no democracy here, but it feels free. It's crazy but calm. Money rules here, and competition is the name of the game. Yet, I sense a genuine generosity of spirit here. People are nice. Many people speak English and those who don't will try with a smile.

I have never seen such incredible infrastructure. I have never seen so many Ferraris, Porches and Roles Royces. The people here are incredibly cosmopolitan and well dressed. It's like one big fashion show. I get the sense that shopping is the number one recreational sport here. Where does all the money come from? Hong Kong ain't cheap either. I am feeling a little over stimulated by the spectacle of all this. The commercialism and materialism is so in your face. Note to self: If I ever come to Hong Kong again, bring some nice clothes and a lot of money. After two days in Hong Kong I feel as I imagine I would feel in Vegas – glad to have gone but ready to leave.

Surely there is an unpleasant underbelly to Hong Kong as it can't all be this shinny and pretentious. No doubt, there is a strong sense of culture and pride that transcends the tourism, the banking and the pretense. We aren't here long enough to understand Hong Kong, just to experience it. I like Hong Kong, but I don't love it.

Today we are off to Cambodia and not a day too soon. Cambodia is our real reason, our real destination and where we seek the meaningful adventure. Juxtaposed to Hong Kong, Cambodia should offer us a starkly different experience. With much anticipation, excitement and a little nervousness, this group is poised and ready. We can make a difference. We don't say it out loud but we all know intuitively that the biggest difference to be made is going to be made in ourselves. By virtue of what a country can offer that is meaningful, Cambodia, we already know, is much wealthier than Hong Kong. We brace ourselves...with arms wide open.

En route to Cambodia

December 5th:

This meaningful adventure to Cambodia has finally become a reality. After months of preparation and anticipation, here we are, at last, en route to Cambodia. Having waited and waited and waited, to finally be here, past the point of no return, gives me a feeling that can best be described as surreal.

Half the group has started this journey in Kamloops. Getting on to the plane in Kamloops my bags were thoroughly searched and swabbed for bomb materials. Apparently the big toothpaste containers are dangerous and the little ones aren't. Who knew? Oh well, at least I can rest assured that I am safe – at least from Kamloops to Vancouver. I find it ironic and counter intuitive how security checks are always so much better in the small airports as opposed to the larger ones. This is a post 911 world.

We arrived in Vancouver and went through yet another round of security checks and my passport checked another half dozen times. I was pleased to learn something in my bag leaked (insert sarcasm). No matter, at this stage, no small annoyance could dampen (no pun intended) my excitement to meet other members of our team and get this show on the road to Cambodia. We all met up and we chatted, some slept and others played a game of Uno. Amongst peoples' laughter and excitement, I sat back and reveled in some joyful and self-satisfied contemplation about the meaning of all of this. I can't wait to observe people's reactions and live vicariously through the experiences of those who have never been to a developing country. I suddenly developed an acute sense of the extent of my responsibility as well; this doesn't feel like a burden, but rather a privilege. In this moment, my resolve and commitment to these generous people, this experience, our hosts partners and our movement has never been stronger. Like all other Developing World Connections team leaders, I am so pleased to be part of peoples' meaningful experiences.

Inevitably our four hour layover increased to a 5.5 hour layover as we were delayed for mechanical issues. Our 13 hour flight time also increased to 14 hours, I suppose because of the winds. As I write this, I find myself at above 30,000 feet,cramped like a chilled sardine into an impressively large B777-300E. With literally hundreds of people, it's like a floating village up here. Lucky for me, I am sitting, next to crying babies and the bathroom (again, insert sarcasm). Sleep is a luxury I don't expect to get much of in the next hours.

As we boarded the plane we walked through the 'first class' section where people actually had their own beds. I couldn't help thinking that maybe they insist of putting us economy folk in the back of the bus, almost just to rub it in – if I hadn't seen what I was missing, I may not have missed it. Promptly after being seated, the curtain was closed to separate us from those in the front. It dawned on me that the seating on a plane is a metaphor for the social structure of society in the developing world: a vast majority of less-than-comfortable people living next to a small elite. With the curtains closed, those with the privilege of space, good service and food are less bothered by the masses. As we took off, I couldn't help wondering, from an economics point of view, whether it was the first class passengers who were effectively subsidizing the cost of a ticket for the economy class, or vice versa? In any case, if we could have all shared the same space equally, the net increase in comfort would have been drastically disproportionate to the net decrease. In any case, no matter our seat, I am sure we all could agree and hope that our pilots knew what they were doing; God forbid in the case of an emergency we would all go down together.

I suppose one could easily get frustrated by air travel. But, contrary to my complaints, its all good. Given the upbeat and positive disposition of all the participants, it is evident that this group will not be daunted. I suppose, in a way, this is good practice for the inevitable 'spontaneity' of the developing world. Better yet, I consider this nothing less than a personal opportunity to practice surrender. Inflicted with the 'convenience is king' and 'time is money' attitudes prevalent in my culture, just going with the flow doesn't always come easily and I am certainly not immune. However, I do hope this experience will gently challenge me to, at very least, boost my immunity.

So far I can tell we have an excellent group of people. It will be interesting to see how the dynamics evolve when we are challenged. I sense that we all have open minds and a genuine curiosity and desire to be of service. With an air of humility and dispossessed of rigid expectations, we stand poised for nothing less than meaningful adventure.